| |
|
|
How to Care for Linens
 Linen
is probably the world's oldest natural fiber, and most people would agree
linen predates dry cleaners. And linen launders beautifully.
Nevertheless, we have to say up front, that the following information
is gleaned from reference books and manufacturers but mostly the people
who drop into our shop. We are indebted to each of them, BUT, we cannot
be responsible for the results you achieve.
So, our caution is as follows: Try the cleaning method you choose on
a small inconspicuous area first, or on a scrap piece of similar fabric,
before doing the whole garment. If your results are good, move cautiously
to a bigger test or the whole garment. For off-the-rack garments, the
most important factor in deciding which method to use is the Manufacturers
Care Recommendations. These instructions take into account tightness
of weave, expected fabric shrinkage of thread, lining and trim, dyes used,
and wrinkle resist treatments. Ignore them at some risk.
Washing
Most of our customers use and recommend washing rather than dry cleaning
for linen garments, bed and table linens. (However; dry cleaning is recommended
for cleaning linen draperies, due to potential for shrinkage in long pieces.)
Washing is recommended because the more linen is washed, the softer, more
absorbent and more luminous it becomes. One can use either hand or machine
washing, but observe the following points:
- Be gentle when laundering linen: use a gentle wash cycle or handwash
and use just a little gentle soap. We like Ivory Snow (powder), but
some people swear by Woolite, some people like Orvus Quilt Soap (available
at some Quilt stores as well as many Saddle and Tack shops!) and some
even use their favorite shampoo. Whatever you use, follow the package
directions. Place delicate, embroidered or fringed linens in a lingerie
bag before putting them into a washing machine.
- Use cool to warm, not hot, water. Wash colored linens in cool water.
Soft water is important: Hard water forms a soap scum that make linen
stiff and dull.
- Launder stains when fresh. If allowed to set, stains may be permanent.
- Use oxygen bleaches (hydrogen peroxide) for white linen. Experiment
to see how much is needed. Chlorine bleaches can cause yellowing.
- Try a couple of tablespoons of cream rinse for your hair in the final
rinse cycle. Linen is cellulose fiber, and many of our customers swear
this makes their linen more lustrous.
- If hand washing, rinse very thoroughly. Removal of all soap will help
prevent large brown spots on linen, which are caused by oxidation
of cellulose by residual soap.
Drying
Several drying methods are recommended for linen
- Line drying,
- Machine drying ,
- Rolling in terry towels, or
- Drying on the lawn!
Whatever method you use, bring the linen in while it is still damp. If linen
dries thoroughly, it may become brittle, taking several hours to recover
its natural moisture and flexibility. Don't wring wet or damp linen before
drying, it breaks the fibers.
Many of our customers prefer to spread their linens on the grass to
dry them (Note to self: Be certain the grass is clean and the dog is tied).
Line drying works as well, but may leave dimples where the clothes pins
were. The sunlight helps bleach white linens white, helps kill bacteria
and leaves them with a great, fresh smell.
Rejuvenating
Linen is more difficult to dye than other fibers, especially in dark shades.
We have found that you can renew the color and sheen of black linen by washing
black linen with a good dose of fabric bluing (normally used to brighten
white cottons) in the rinse water. Then give it a final rinse in clear water
before drying. You can still find bluing in the laundry detergent section
at many grocery and dime stores.
Ironing
Ironing is often optional when dried flat or tumbled at low heat. We hate
to iron, but ironing linen is a great deal easier if you do it when the
linen is damp. And if linen is removed from drying while still damp and
ironed immediately, it is easier still. Steam ironing dry linen is less
effective and requires more effort (Ugh!). If you can't get to them while
they are still damp, put them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator before
ironing. This will make them easier to iron and will prevent mildew.
Use spray starch (if desired) and iron with lots of steam at a medium-to-hot
setting. Starch provides extra crispness, particularly for folded napkins.For
a softer look for garments, use fabric sizing instead.
Iron on the wrong side first, then on the right side to bring out the
sheen, especially damasks and light-colored linens. Iron dark linens on
the wrong side only. Heavier fabrics may need a slightly higher temperature
setting. Pure linen can withstand the highest temperature setting on your
iron, but test an inconspicuous corner first.
Iron linen until smooth but not dry. Once wrinkles are gone, hang the
linen item until it is bone dry. When ironing embroidered linen, keep
the embroidery stitches rounded and dimensional by pressing item on the
wrong side atop a soft towel. Use a press cloth to safeguard delicate
lace and cutwork. A press cloth also helps to avoid press marks over seams,
hems and pockets. Place a table next to the ironing board when ironing
large tablecloths. Roll finished sections of the cloth over the table
rather than letting it pile up under the ironing board. Minimize creasing
ironed tablecloths by rolling them around a tube or hanging them.
When traveling, do not try to steam out wrinkles; wrinkles must
be pressed out with an iron. Dampen the linen first.
Storing Linen
Always clean linen items before storing: dirty linen encourages mildew.
Good ventilation, light and lack of available bacterial food discourage
mildew growth. If you discover mildew on your linens, brush the mold off
outdoors to avoid scattering spores in your house. Then soak the linen item
in a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide and water before laundering. Wash
as above, dry in the sun, then store in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area.
My Grandma always wadded her linen tablecloths up and stored them in
her China cabinet that way. She told me that it prevented them always
being folded in the same place and developing repetitive fade or wear
marks in storage. If you decide to wrap the linen, use bags of linen,
cotton or muslin, never plastic bags. If you use tissue paper, be certain
it is acid-free tissue paper, because the acids in regular tissue
paper can yellow linen. Never store linen in plastic bags, cedar chests
or cardboard boxes. Also, fumes from polyurethane foam, Cedar closets
and acids in unvarnished wood and cardboard can cause linen to rot, streak
or turn yellow.
Copyright ©: 1998-2009, Silk Road, inc.
3910 N. Lamar, Austin, TX, USA 78756
Tel: +1 (512) 302-0844
Fax: +1 (512) 302-0611
Comments? Questions? Write us at: webmistress@srfabrics.com
|
|
